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At Chanel and Dior, the Incredible Intimacy of What You Cant Buy Online

The show room was lined with dressmakers’ busts displaying the white toiles that were the base of the collection, and on each seat was a booklet created by the house with meditations on the production of couture (also its meaning, in an unnecessarily pretentious Lacan/Duchamp-quoting way). Giambattista Valli haute couture, fall 2018.CreditValerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times Giambattista Valli haute couture, fall 2018.CreditValerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times It’s a risky thing to deliberately fly in the face of digital culture and insist on the value of manual artistry and that which cannot be shared or liked en masse, especially at a time when fashion seems to measure its worth by numbers of followers. There’s no question the result was less photographically gripping than, say, Giambattista Valli’s maximalist couture youthquake of bustiers-with-trains over high-waisted full trousers; his high/low frothing baby dolls of tulle and Chantilly lace, and neon pink entrance-makers, which are like candy for the selfie set. (Many of whom, such as Derek Blasberg, newly installed at YouTube as a connector between the tech giant and the fashion world, were sitting front row and amusing themselves preshow by taking — you guessed it — selfies.) By contrast, the Dior clothes came dangerously close to boring. But then, as Ms. Chiuri pointed out, “You can’t buy couture online.” The issue is one of values: Do you want your clothes to be a public performance piece? Or an intimate conversation between you and yourself? They are legitimate questions, though, as Karl Lagerfeld proved at Chanel, the divide does not always have to be so stark. Against a backdrop of the Institut de France — the 18th-century building facing the Pont des Arts that is home to the Académie Française — and along a runway built to resemble the sidewalks by the Seine, complete with bouquinistes (the sellers of vintage books and magazines) and a sprinkling of observers (men and boys wearing T-shirts bearing the slogan “Institut Chanel”), Mr.

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